HEAD HARBOUR Campobello Island

W of Head Harbour Is.: 44° 57.10’N 066° 54.50’W

4th ed. Cruising Guide page 379

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U.S. Charts: 13396, 13328, 13394, 13398

Canandian Charts: 4373

Passamquoddy region overview chart Campobello Island chart Harbor chart

Tidal Range: Mean 18.1 feet; Large 25.2 feet

A picturesque lighthouse at the end of a series of bold, rocky islets gives the mariner a dramatic welcome to Head Harbour, at the northeastern end of Campobello Island. On early French charts, this was Port aux Coquilles. Though less euphoniously named nowadays, it is still one of the best harbors in the Passamaquoddy region, a good place to spend the night or to wait out the tide before entering Head Harbour Passage or Letete Passage. The entrance is easy, the harbor is snug, and there is always fascinating fishing activity.
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Unfortunately if this is your first port of call in Canada, it is difficult to call customs from here (888-CANPASS) unless you have a cellular phone onboard. Surprisingly, there is no public phone on the large and otherwise fully-equipped government wharf. It is a 1.3-mile walk to a phone in Wilsons Beach. Perhaps, if you are lucky, you can find someone kind enough to give you a ride.
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Equally frustrating is the fact that if you plan to arrive back in any U.S. anchorage the next day, you will have to reenter the U.S. at Eastport or Lubec.
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Approaches. Nancy Head, on the east coast of Campobello Island, is high and prominent. The distinctive lighthouse at East Quoddy Head, with its white buildings and red roofs, is visible a long way. The white tower sports an enormous red cross, as though wrapped in red ribbon. Islands and headlands range away to the northeast along this beautiful coast.
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There are two entrances to Head Harbour, one on each side of Head Harbour Island. The northern entrance is better. Run down the middle of the northern entrance, passing weirs on both sides. You’ll also pass moorings and a long private dock near the western end of Head Harbour Island.
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Three green buoys are grouped close together beyond the island. Run north of them, leaving them to port. Favor the north shore at Cubs Point, then proceed down the middle of the channel. From just past Cubs Point to the L-shaped public wharf, the water in the channel is more than 30 feet deep at low. Salmon pens are moored along the edges of the channel.
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Anchorages, Moorings. Fishing boats are tied up along every wall of the public wharf, with the largest nested along the outer edges of the L. Depth is good inside as well, where there is about 15 feet at low. Pick a convenient boat to come alongside.
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If there is no room alongside, inquire about a vacant mooring or find a spot to anchor west of the wharf. Work boats and other purposeful craft crowd this small harbor. Small yachts often tie up to the resident pile driver.
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There may be room to anchor among the line of stake moorings that extend westward to shoal water. The rocky southern shore west of the wharf is steep-to, with depths nearby of 12 to 15 feet at low and good mud holding ground.
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The halogen lights on the wharf will cast an eerie yellow glow at night, especially in the fog.
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Getting Ashore. Clamber over the adjoining boats and climb the ladder to the top of the wharf. Or, if you are less athletically inclined, dinghy to the float on the inside of the L and use the ramp.
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For the Boat. Inquire at the wharf about water. There are waste-oil containers ashore.
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For the Crew. From the dock, turn left and walk 1.3 miles to the small market and post office at Wilsons Beach.
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Things to Do. East Quoddy Head Light stands on the most seaward of a number of small islets. After a challenging walk up and down steel ladders and across treacherous seaweed and sharp rocks, you will reach a sign that reads, “Danger—Rising Tides can get you stranded on this island.” Proceed to the lighthouse only if it is near low tide.
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During July and August you may be able to spot whales from East Quoddy Head. Often a pod will come in on the flood, spouting frequently. The walk from the Head Harbour wharf to the parking lot at the lighthouse is 1.6 miles.
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The head of Head Harbour has numerous wrecks, derelict vessels, and a sagging cannery on its banks. It feels like another era, well worth a little time-travel by dinghy.
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