NORTH HEAD Grand Manan

44° 45.65’N 066° 45.00’W

4th ed. Cruising Guide page 372

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U.S. Charts: 13394

Canandian Charts: 4340, 4342

Passamquoddy region overview chart Approach chart Harbor chart Aerial photo

Tidal range: Mean 17.9 feet; Large 24 feet

Customs: 888-CANPASS; Office: 506-662-3232
Emergency: 506-662-8484
Hospital: 506-662-8411
Ferry info.: 506-662-3606

NORTH HEAD is a fishing village on the northeast corner of Grand Manan, home to a fleet of brightly painted seiners and trawlers. The harbor is always bustling with activity, a fascinating place to spend a few days and meet the friendly residents.
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The village and man-made harbor are on the south side of the peninsula of North Head. This is a port of entry for Canadian Customs, an excellent refuge, and the best place to start your exploration of the island.
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Approaches. Approach chart. Passages to Grand Manan. Coming from the coast of Maine, by far the safest approach is along the western coast of Grand Manan. The current in Grand Manan Channel averages 1.5 to 2.5 knots, flooding northeast and ebbing southwest, and near the west coast of Grand Manan, the current runs about 3 knots, parallel to the shore.
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Grand Manan’s west coast is wooded, with steep cliffs 300 feet high. North of Dark Harbour they rise to 400 feet. In clear weather, the cliffs are visible from a long way away. Head for a point off the northwestern tip of Grand Manan, keeping good DR and GPS fixes against the possibility that fog may close in. The coast is bold, with no outlying dangers. Even in thick weather, you would probably be aware of the crash of the surf and loom of the cliffs before getting into trouble.
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As you near the northern tip of the island, you will see the lighthouse at Northern Head on a plateau halfway up the cliffs: a square white tower and several separate houses with red roofs. Rounding the northern point, with its dramatic scalloped cliffs, note the multiple layers at Ashburton Head known as “Seven Days Work.” There may be turbulence and tide rips here, and you are likely to be blanketed for a while by the island. Keep a lookout for the ferry, which runs several times a day between North Head and Blacks Harbour to the north. In fog, you might want to call the ferry on channel 16 for their position or to call Fundy Traffic on channel 14 or 12 to report yours. At this point, there is still some distance to go to reach the harbor, especially if the tide is flooding and the current against you.
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As you round Fish Head, the distinctive Swallow Tail lighthouse will appear as a white octagonal tower with a red top, guyed all around. Continuing south past Swallow Tail, leave the red bell off Net Point to starboard as you make the turn westward toward the harbor. Note the weirs close to shore; they are typical of those found all around Grand Manan.
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The Canadian courtesy flag should now be flying at the starboard spreader, and you are in the Atlantic Time Zone. The time here is one hour later than in the eastern United States.
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Anchorages, Moorings. There are three large wharves in Flagg Cove, off North Head. The more easterly wharf, marked with a fixed red light at the outer corner, is for the large ferries from Blacks Harbour (ferry schedules and rates). The middle wharf, to the west, is the old ferry wharf. Just west of that is Fisherman’s Wharf, in the shape of a bent T, with a flashing red light at the outer corner (see inset, Canadian chart 4342). Fish pens moored in the western part of the cove are far enough from the wharves to present little danger, although they may not be lit at night.
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There is deep water at both ends of Fisherman’s Wharf, and you can tie up inside either end of the crosspiece of the T. The easterly part is exposed to the east and southeast. The most convenient place to lie is inside the recently-dredged westerly part where there is more room and better access to a float for landing. The inner corner is reserved for large herring seiners. Along the western portion of the wharf, you can probably find a boat about your size to tie alongside. Boats here usually moor heading westward. If there are fishermen around, they will help you tend the lines. There is a $25 fee for dockage here, even when you are rafted to the fishing boats, and the harbormaster will come by to collect it. He might also shepherd you into his pickup and give you a lift if you need one.
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Getting Ashore. If this is your port of entry, call 888-CANPASS or report to Customs (506-662-3232) in the brick house—also the post office—near the wharf (see section on “Entering Canada”). Row in to the “pontoon” and ramp near the head of the wharf. Another possibility is to clamber across the neighboring boats and climb a vertical ladder.
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For the Boat. Harbour Authority of Grand Manan (506-662-8482). There is a trash bin at the head of the wharf. Fuel can be obtained by truck from Irving (506-662-3433), located left down the road a short distance from the wharf. Electricity can be arranged at the dock by permit, through the harbormaster.
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Ice can be bought at most stores. Water is harder to come by. Talk to the captains of the large seiners docked at the wharf. They have installed—at their own expense—running water to the outer portion of the wharf. Or use a five-gallon container and ask for water at a nearby store. Charts and publications are sold at Island Home Hardware (506-662-8441) in Grand Harbour.
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Daggett Agencies (506-662-3652) in Grand Harbour has some marine supplies.
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For the Crew. Laundry facilities, showers, and toilets are available at Hole-in-the-Wall Campground (506-662-3152) about 1&Mac218;4 mile away. Take a right on the ferry landing road, then a left on Old Airport Road.
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Several takeouts, dairy bars, and restaurants cluster near the ferry landing, within walking distance west of the wharf. The Compass Rose, on the harbor, serves three meals a day and—remember, we're in Canada—tea.
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The Grandisle grocery and drug store (506-662-3439) is about a mile west of the docks, where the main road turns south. A bakery and the Grand Manan Hospital (506-662-8411) are just beyond. Pay phones can be found near the ferry dock and at the Customs House where the post office is also located. On summer Saturdays the village of North Head has a farmer’s market featuring local produce and crafts.
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Bikes can be rented and kayak tours planned at Adventure High (506-662-3563), a short distance from the ferry landing. At present, there is no taxi service on the island.
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If you arrange transportation, there is a market (506-662-8152) and a laundromat in Woodwards Cove. Grand Harbour has the island’s only bank, a hardware store with charts (506-662-8441), and the fabulous, old-style Newton Market (506-662-8166). The only liquor store is in Castalia, more than 2 miles away.
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Things to Do. Chamber of commerce. Tourist pamphlets and maps of the walking trails are available at markets and stores. Guided bus tours (506-662-8545) of the island start and end at the ferry terminal.
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One nearby walk is a must. Turn right from the wharf and follow the road and signs .7 mile out to Swallow Tail Light. The path leads down and across a bridge over a chasm to the spectacular little peninsula on which its white-shingled, octagonal tower stands firmly anchored against the winter winds by guywires. The former keeper’s house and a boathouse are still there. Notice the angle of the ways down which the boat was launched. Look out to sea, and you might see whales.
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For a spectacular but much longer hike, take the trail that starts near the Swallow Tail parking lot. It heads through the woods and along the cliffs past Whale Cove and Hole-in-the-Wall and out to Fish Point and back. The trail is rough and often emerges on high cliffs. Wear long pants, take insect repellent, and allow 21&Mac218;2 hours.
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If you are sailing with children, take them to Stanley Beach at the west end of the North Head bight to look for sand dollars at low tide.
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The main road, Route 776, runs down the eastern shore of Grand Manan, past several small coves. At Woodwards Cove, take a look at the smokehouses, with their weathered shingles and red doors, still used to smoke herring.
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A free ferry runs from the man-made harbor at Ingalls Head to White Head Island, which is fun to explore by bike. Just make sure you catch the last ferry back at 4:30 PM (double check that you have set your watches ahead by one hour).
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At Grand Harbour, farther south via Route 776, there is a wonderful little museum with an impressive Fresnel lens from a lighthouse, marine and geological exhibits, and a large collection of island birds. The Tourist Information Centre (506-662-3442) is located beneath the museum.
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Several operators offer charter excursions to watch seals, whales, or puffins. The Grand Manan Whale and Seabird Research Station is located acrss the street from the ferry terminal. Apple Blossom Stables (506-662-3296) can put you in the saddle. Or you can take to the skies with Seagull Aviation (506-662-8525) for sightseeing by air from Seal Cove.
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Don't miss the social phenomenon of loading the ferry (ferry schedules and rates), lifeline of all islands: cars line up on the main street hours before departure time, large trucks inch down the ramp into the ferry’s maw, and families walk aboard for the long ride to the mainland.