THE Somes Sound is a glacial river valley drowned by the ocean among the geologically old, rounded mountains of Mount Desert Island. Technically, this is the only fjord on the eastern Atlantic seaboard, though it is a modest example compared with the majestic fjords of Norway or New Zealand. Still, a sail up Somes Sound is exhilarating. Offshore islands drop astern and shear cliffs plunge into the deep water. Gradually the shoreline levels. At its head lies graceful Somes Harbor.
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Sailing in Somes Sound is variable and challenging. The wind usually funnels straight up or straight down the sound, and it is likely to shift rapidly. Downdrafts come off the mountains, cat’s paws spread in all directions, and a strong current runs in the Narrows. With many of the cliffs falling straight into the sea, you can hold your course till the last minute and tack under the looming rocks. In one or two spots, you can lay your boat right up against the cliffs. Occasionally you will see porpoises.
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There are few dangers in Somes Sound. Middle Rock is marked by can “5” (Fl G 2.5s) just before The Narrows. The 4-foot spot off the eastern shore just past The Narrows claims more than its share of unsuspecting yachts. So does the shoaling area off Sand Point.
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The splendid harbors of Southwest and Northeast flank the entrances to Somes Sound, and the Northeast Harbor Fleet is based in Gilpatrick Cove. There are several boatyards in the Sound.
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Valley Cove, under Eagle Cliffs, is a wonderful spot to anchor and climb Flying Mountain. Around the next headland, Man o’War Brook still tumbles into the sound as it did when English ships filled their water casks here. If you venture close to the western shore, you’ll find a bronze plaque set in the vertical stone in memory of Reverend Cornelius Smith and his wife, Mary Wheeler. These pioneers of the summer colony of Northeast Harbor (1886-1913) gave Acadia Mountain to the public.
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The silent granite faces of Hall Quarry lie just beyond. Five miles up, at the head of the sound, is the narrow entrance to Somes Harbor and the peaceful village of Somesville. There are a number of places along the sound to spend the night, including Valley Cove, Somes Harbor, and several of the yards mentioned below.
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For the Boat. John M. Williams Co. (Ch. 09; 207-244-7854; www.stanleyboats.com). This custom boatbuilder and repair yard is located on the west side of Somes Sound at the old Hall Quarry. They have rental moorings for transients and a float with water. In a pinch, fuel can be delivered by truck. Don’t try to anchor here, depths drop off to over 100 feet!
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Williams builds the Stanley line of boats based on the lobsterboat hull form in various sizes. They also haul with a 30-ton boatlift and can make engine, hull, refrigeration, metalworking, and rigging repairs, or you can tackle them yourself.
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From the Williams yard, walk up the tarred road until you are even with the top of the quarry, then follow the dirt road to the left, past the old crane shack, where the gears and levers have rusted in place. There is a dizzying view down a vertical face of stone into the quarry pool. Pink granite quarried here was used for the Franklin Mint in Philadelphia, and the quarry was reopened in the 1950s when an exact match was needed.
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From the yard, walk up to the paved road and turn left, continuing to Route 102. Turn left again in about 100 yards at the sign for Ike’s Point. There you will discover a tiny beach on beautiful Echo Lake. The swimming is great. The distance is 1.3 miles each way.
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Bar Harbor Boating (Ch. 09 or 10; 207-276-5838). This small yard is a division of Bar Harbor Boating in Hulls Cove, north of Bar Harbor. Their big red shed with gray doors sits on a little cove on the east side, directly opposite Hall Quarry. They have a couple of rental moorings, floats (6 feet alongside), and a 20-ton marine railway, and they can make hull and engine repairs. Water and propane are available, but no fuel.
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Henry R. Abel Yacht Yard (207-276-5777). The Abel yard is located on the northeast side of Somes Sound, just beyond white-and-orange can “10” where the chart indicates a marine railway. There are a number of granite-block rental moorings with orange balls inside the ledge marked by the can. Take care, however. The yard reports that each year boats cut the can and end up on the ledge. The yard has several floats, with 7 feet reported alongside. Water, electricity, and ice are available, but no fuel. This spotless yard handles hull repairs and painting in its large sheds, including one for spray-painting. It has two boatlifts, of 35 and 50 tons. Engine repairs can be arranged. Abel’s Lobster Pound restaurant (276-5827), next to the yard, has tables outside in a peaceful pine grove.
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It’s about 2 miles to Somesville by road for groceries, or you can get there, of course, by water.
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To enter the national park trails, walk up from the yard to the main road and turn right. About three-quarters of a mile south you will find a sign for Giant Slide Trail, leading to Sargent Mountain. A shorter walk in the same direction will bring you to the Mount Desert Island Historical Society’s Sound School House Museum.

Somes Sound View Campground