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BASS HARBOR, at the southwestern corner of Mount Desert Island, is the home port for Mount Deserts largest lobstering fleet. It is also a growing yachting center. It is flanked by the towns of Bernard on the west shore and Bass Harbor on the east. The outer harbor is open to the south, but there is better protection inside. The ferry to Swans Island and Frenchboro leaves from Bass Harbor on the east side. This is where Ruth Moore lived for 40 years and wrote most of her novels about life on the Maine coast, now popular once more. Among the best known are Speak to the Winds and The Weir.
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Approaches. Harbor chart. Bass Harbor Head Light marks the harbors eastern shore, with a small white tower and connected building.
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Coming from the west, there are no problems entering Bass Harbor. Weaver Ledge, at the entrance, is marked by a nun and a can at either end. From the east, the usual approach is across Bass Harbor Bar.
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Anchorages, Moorings. Morris Yachts maintains a number of rental moorings south of their dock on the eastern shore, identifiable by their conical floats. You can anchor in about 23 feet near the moorings in good holding ground, but it is likely to be rolly.
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Morris also manages slips and moorings way up inside the harbor near nun 6, at Bass Harbor Boat. The dredged channel shown on the chart is deep enough but narrow, and full of moored lobsterboats. The rest of the inner harbor is ledgy and a lot of it dries out at low. Stay in the channel and wind your way among the boats.
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Getting Ashore. In Bass Harbor, take the dinghy to the Morris floats or to the public landing just north of the docks of the Swans Island ferry. In Bernard, land at the Bass Harbor Boat floats.
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For the BoatBass Harbor. Morris Yachts (Ch. 09, 16; 207-244-5509). Morris Yachts is located near the mouth of the harbor, on the eastern, Bass Harbor side. While the Morris Yachts themselves are built inland, Morris operates its charter fleet here as well as running a full-service yard. They haul with a 30-ton boatlift and can handle repairs of all kinds. Water, electricity, and pump-outs are available at the floats, with 15 feet alongside at low, and they may install diesel pumps pending permits.
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Bass Harbor Public Landing (Harbormaster Tim Butler, 207-244-4564). The floats at the public landing are on the east side, just north of the ferry dock, with 6 to 7 feet alongside at low and a two-hour maximum tie-up. Pay phones and a dumpster are available at the ferry terminal.
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C.H. Rich Co. (207-244-3485). North of the ferry landing is the red brick crab cannery, and just north of that is the blue shingled building and lobster wharf of C.H. Rich. Gas and diesel are available alongside.
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Harbor Divers (Ch. 07, 16, 71; 207-244-5751). May you never need them.
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For the BoatBernard. F.W. Thurston Co. (Ch. 16; 207-244-3320). The green-and-gray buildings of F.W. Thurston are on the Bernard side, part way along the dredged channel and just south of the big red fish plant. They are easily recognized by the yellow awnings on the wharf of the Thurston takeout immediately preceding the fuel float. They cater primarily to commercial fishermen, selling gas and diesel at their fuel float, with 7 feet alongside at low.
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Up Harbor Marina (244-4033). This little operations gray-and-white buildings occupy the last dock and floats northward, on the Bernard side near nun 6. Water and electricity and pump-outs are available at the floats, with 8 feet of depth at low. Most of the slips and moorings here are managed by Morris Yachts.
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For the Crew. Morris Yachts has showers, a laundromat, and a phones. The Maine-ly Delights takeout is next door, hard by the Swans Island ferry terminal.
A quarter-mile walk north from Morris Yachts brings you to The Wharf Restaurant, on Richs wharf, selling and serving live or cooked lobsters, crabs, scallops, and shrimp. The Seafood Ketch restaurant is next door. Take the next right to the post office.
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Across the harbor in Bernard, you can buy lobsters live or to eat in the rough at F.W. Thurston, and there is a fish market a short distance south of Up Harbor Marina.
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Things to Do. There are several antique shops in Bernard, on the west side of the harbor. The easiest way to get there is to row.
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To visit the Bass Harbor Head Light, turn right after the post office onto Route 102A and continue until you see signs. The round trip is 3 miles, a delightful walk.
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A short trail to the left takes you down to the pink granite ledges and provides a good view of the lighthouse, which is now privately owned. A paved path to the right goes to the lighthouse itself, with a great bronze bell mounted next to it, marked U.S. Lighthouse Establishment 1891.
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Both children and adults might like to visit Ravenswood (244-9621), which sells ship models and kits. Walk left from the ferry and turn right on McMullen Avenue.
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East of Bass Harbor is Ship Harbor, which is part of Acadia National Park and has an interesting nature trail. To get there, walk out Route 102A toward the lighthouse but continue on 102A instead of turning off toward the light. After .7 mile, you will find the beginning of this self-guiding, 1.3 mile trail. The walking is easy and delightful along shoreline paths through the spruce and past bogs with insectivorous pitcher plants.
Bass Harbor Campground
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