BURNT COAT HARBOR

entrance: 44° 07.97’N 068° 26.74’W inner channel: 44° 08.45’N 068° 26.90’W

4th ed. Cruising Guide page 288

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Charts: 13313, 13312

Chart Kit: 70, 22

Mount Desert region overview chart Harbor chart

BURNT COAT HARBOR, on the south shore of Swan’s Island, is an attractive, well-protected harbor with one of the island’s largest communities. It remains a serious fishing town—lobsterboats still leave the harbor at first light, rocking you gently in your bunk, and roar back in at dusk.
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Approaches from the west. Burnt Coat Harbor is approached from the west through well-marked Toothacher Bay. You’ll glimpse salmon aquaculture pens moored up in Toothacher Cove. The barren rock of High Sheriff merges at first with grassy Gooseberry Island behind it. Red-and-white bell “HI” marks the center of the fairway. Run down the middle of the entrance, between green can “3” to port and wooded Harbor Island to starboard. The square white tower and white building of the lighthouse on Hockamock Head are conspicuous. Enter the harbor between red beacon “4” off Harbor Island and gong “5.” There is plenty of room to drop your sails after entering.
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Approaches from the east. The “back door” to Burnt Coat Harbor is a neat little tickle between Stanley Point and Harbor Island, marked by two green cans left to port. From red gong “2,” run inside the Baker Islands, leaving the first can well to port. It marks the western end of a very mean ledge, visible only at dead low. Curving right around Stanley Point, leave the inner can to port. This one marks the southern end of a ledge visible at midtide. Pass between this ledge and the two little wooded islands to starboard. Beyond, note the ledges off Long Cove and the little island (Potato), left to starboard. This entrance is an exhilarating experience under sail.
Anchorages, Moorings. The Swan’s Island Boathouse, on the west side of the harbor, has a number of heavy rental moorings rigged with lobster buoys. They are maintained by the local fishermen, and the proceeds go to them.
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There is also plenty of room to anchor along the western side of the harbor outside the moorings and northward, in 17 to 25 feet at low. The bottom is mud, but we’ve had reports of anchors fouled by seaweed and boats dragging. Be sure your anchor is well set. It is also possible to anchor north of Harbor Island, but the swells may give you an uncomfortable night.
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Getting Ashore. Land at the dinghy float at the Swan’s Island Boat Shop or, heading north, at the Fishermen’s Co-op or Kent’s Wharf.
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For the Boat. Swan’s Island Boathouse (207-526-4207). This cruising landmark has had trouble in recent years. Owners Kevin and Debbie Staples still rent moorings and allow dinghy docking, but the lobstering has been so good that they’ve closed their restaurant.
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Fishermen’s Co-op (207-526-4327). The first long wharf to the north of the Boathouse has gas and diesel at the southern float (4 feet at low) and some marine supplies. The green Co-op is strictly a “fishermen first” operation, but it is very friendly. The manager requests that visiting yachtsmen not buy fuel after 1 PM, when wharf space is needed for returning lobsterboats.
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Kent’s Wharf (Ch. 68; 207-526-4186; www.swansislandlobster.com). Kent’s Wharf, the next wharf to the north, also caters to cruisers’ needs. They welcome cruising boats to their float, which has 6 feet of depth at low. They have gas, diesel, water, ice, phones, and live or cooked lobsters, and they accept checks or credit cards. In a marvelously understated (and unsigned) letter, the proprietor says “Kent’s Wharf has a little of what you need.”
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For the Crew. Lobsters are available at the Fishermen’s Co-op or Kent’s Wharf.
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Sadly, Swan's Island's only grocery store, the general store in Minturn, closed its doors in the summer of 2002 after several years of struggling in a changing economy.
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Things to Do. It is a short walk south down the road to the lighthouse at Hockamock Head, with great views of the harbor and bay. The square white tower was built in 1872 and served as a useful mark for fishermen in setting their traps and finding their way home. In a late-1970s cost-cutting move, the Coast Guard closed the lighthouse and replaced it with a 20-foot beacon whose light could be seen only half as far. Under pressure from Swan’s Islanders, the light in the tower was restored.
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In 1982, the Coast Guard stripped the white paint off the brick tower to reduce repainting costs. This made the tower almost invisible against the background. The islanders protested again, and the tower was finally restored to its brilliant white.
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In 1994, as part of the Maine Lights Program, the Coast Guard transferred ownership of the light to the town of Swan’s Island as part of a public park.
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For a long walk, go past the narrow “Carrying Place” to Fine Sand Beach. This is a lovely pocket beach reached by a trail through the woods from the parking area. Do not be surprised if you see deer along the way. Or you can rent bikes or kayaks from the Harbor Watch Motel (526-4563, 800-532-7929) in Minturn and explore the island’s roads. If you plan ahead, the motel may be able to deliver them to one of the wharves.
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To swim at freshwater Quarry Pond, take your dinghy eastward from the anchorage, passing inside Potato Island. Go beyond the old stone wharf and tie up at a public landing float. Then walk a short distance up to the right to the quarry. Beware of hidden rocks in the pond.

Swan's Island town site

Harbor Watch Motel ((800) 532-7928 or (207) 526-4563)