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MACKEREL COVE is a large bay on the north side of Swans Island. The ferry from Bass Harbor docks here just east of can 3, and the tiny fishing community of Atlantic is in the southeast corner. The cove is large enough to handle the New York Yacht Club cruise fleet with space left over, and it offers good protection, particularly in the anchorages east and west of Roderick Head.
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Approaches. Harbor chart. From the north, the approach is wide and easy, starting at green gong 1 at North Point, left to port, and observing the nun off the ledge at Crow Island.
COPYRIGHT 2002 DIAMOND PASS PUBLISHING
Mackerel Cove may also be entered from the west. From York Narrows (inset on chart 13315), turn sharply to starboard after passing Buckle Harbor and green can 5. There is ample room between Swans Island and Orono Island, which is marked by a granite wharf at the southern end. This is a remarkably pretty passage through which the current floods eastward and ebbs westward. After passing Orono Island and the two islets to starboard, continue along the shore of Swans, with its sloping granite slabs, and leave nun 4 close aboard to port. The outermost of the two islets south of nun 4 is low and bare. The inner one is wooded.
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The key to Mackerel Cove is the enormous ledge off Roderick Head. At high tide, only a tiny portion is visible, even though the rest extends a long way east and southwest, as you will observe at low. Boats frequently underestimate the extent of the ledge and anchor too close for comfortable swinging, or they actually find it with their keels. Anchor a long way from the ledge, just to be sure.
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There is room to pass between the ledge and Roderick Head, but a nasty rock is reported about 250 feet offshore on a line between Roderick Head and the ledge. Proceed with caution about midway between the two, but avoid the passage altogether within two hours either side of low.
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Anchorages, Moorings. There are several places to anchor in Mackerel Cove, all with good holding ground and beautiful views of Mount Desert Island. When a large fleet is in, they usually cluster west and south of can 3, but the protection is better farther south, on either side of Roderick Head. The anchorage east of Roderick Head is small and unobstructed. Anchor in 7 to 10 feet at low.
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West of Roderick Head, the first small ledge on the east side is visible until about halftide. Deep water extends southward to a tiny islet that has two tanks on top of it, and there are small craft moored in the shoal cove beyond. Anchor in 15 feet at low.
COPYRIGHT 2002 DIAMOND PASS PUBLISHING
It is also possible to anchor east of can 3, along the shoreline south of the ferry landing, in 10 to 13 feet at low, but the protection is not as good.
COPYRIGHT 2002 DIAMOND PASS PUBLISHING
Getting Ashore. The public landing and float are on the south side of the ferry terminal, with good water alongside. Yachts often make crew changes here.
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For the Crew. There is a pay phone at the ferry terminal and a modicum of civilization in the village of Atlanticabout a 20-minute walk. Follow the ferry road to its intersection with the main road. Left and left again will put you on the Atlantic Loop Road, where you will find a small laundromat. A right at the intersection past the laundromat will bring you to the village center. Enroute you will pass the islands new, consolidated school, with about 60 students.
The island's only grocery store was in the village of Minturn, at Burnt Coat Harbor, a 3-mile walk, but it closed for good in the summer of 2002. At high tide, there is a shortcut from the anchorage east of Roderick Head. Take your dinghy to the road at the head of the cove. From there, its only a mile to Minturn.
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Things to Do. The Swans Library is at the ferry landing in a traditional Island house. An island history museum is a short walk away. The new Lobster and Marine Museum (526-4423), celebrating the history of the lobster industry and fishing heritage, is also nearby.
Swan's Island town site
Harbor Watch Motel ((800) 532-7928 or (207) 526-4563)
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