CASTINE



44° 23.19’N 068° 47.76’W

4th ed. Cruising Guide page 247
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Charts: 13309, 13302
Chart Kit: 66, 20

Penobscot Bay overview chart
Castine Harbor chart

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CASTINE is a beautiful town on a high and almost isolated peninsula north of Cape Rosier at the mouth of the Bagaduce River. Lovely old homes grace streets still lined with elms, and the village is quiet and inviting. Castine’s history is long and colorful, with believe-it-or-not military comings and goings that border on the bizarre.
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Samuel de Champlain stopped here in 1604, on his way up the Penobscot River, and John Smith followed in 1614. A Plymouth Company trading post was established by 1629. From then on, Castine changed hands regularly between the French and English, and once, for a few days, the Dutch. Something like 16 different fortifications were built on the peninsula, of which Fort George and Fort Madison are still recognizable today.
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One of the earliest, Fort Pentagoet, built by the French in 1635, has been excavated, revealing that Brittany slate, used as ships’ ballast, was one of the building materials. Ceramic stew pots, soup ladles, and stemware for Rhennish wine uncovered here suggest that the French brought civilization with them to the wilderness. Baron Jean-Vincent d’Abbadie de Saint-Castin was a 22-year-old ensign at Fort Pentagoet when it was destroyed in 1674. Returning from France after his discharge, the baron married Mathilde, daughter of Madockawando, a Tarratine Indian sagamore, and rebuilt Pentagoet.
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A century later, it was Britain’s turn, and during the Revolution they started construction of Fort George—thus instigating the disastrous Penobscot Expedition (see sidebar, page 250). When the 1783 Treaty of Paris unexpectedly ceded Castine to the United States, a number of Tories who had settled there dismantled their houses and shipped them north to found the town of St. Andrews on Passamaquoddy Bay.
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Castine was the last British post to be surrendered at the end of the American Revolution—only to be recaptured during the War of 1812. The British left at last in 1815.
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Approaches. Castine Harbor chart. From the south, you can safely coast along quite close to Cape Rosier, which is high, wooded, and steep. From well south of Cape Rosier, you will be able to see the round, white tower of the abandoned lighthouse on Dice Head.
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A surprising number of boats have discovered the rock shown on the chart on the northwestern corner of Nautilus Island. Do not cut the island close. Find red-and-white bell “CH” (44° 22.50’N 068° 49.05’W), marking the entrance to Castine Harbor and proceed up the middle of the river, leaving can “1” to port and red daybeacon “2,” on its granite pile at Hosmer Ledge, well to starboard.
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The Castine waterfront is opposite nun “2,” which marks the western edge of Middle Ground. Be sure to locate the nun, well over on the north side of the river just outside the moored boats. Obvious landmarks are the large brick buildings of Maine Maritime Academy. Often the training ship State of Maine is docked alongside.
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Anchorages, Moorings. The Bagaduce River empties out past Castine, and the current is swift. This, and the extreme depth, make it impractical to anchor off Castine. Eaton’s Boatyard rents moorings as does the Castine Yacht Club and the Castine Harbor Lodge. Dock space is available at Eaton’s, Dennett’s Wharf, the Harbor Lodge, and sometimes at the yacht club.
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Another strategy is to lie at the town dock or pick up a mooring for a couple of hours while exploring the town, then anchor for the night in nearby Smith Cove or Holbrook Island Harbor.
Getting Ashore. Land at the yacht club, Eaton’s, or on the floats of the town dock.
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For the Boat. Castine Town Dock (harbormaster: Ch. 09). The town has two floats, both just east of the Maine Maritime Academy. The larger, westernmost float allows dockage for up to two hours or overnight by arrangement with the harbormaster. It also has water. The smaller, eastern dock is limited to 20 minutes.
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Dennett’s Wharf (207-326-9045). Dennett’s is primarily a restaurant, but they have a rental mooring and 120 feet of dock space with 11 feet at low. Electricity, water, showers, and heads are available.
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Eaton’s Boatyard (Ch. 09 or 16; 207-326-8579). Eaton’s dock and floats and big shingled shed are west of the yacht club and just east of Dennett’s Wharf. Their fuel dock, with 16 feet alongside at low, has gas and diesel, pump-outs, ice, and water. They have a marine railway and can handle hull and engine repairs. Call the yard for a tow if you end up on a nearby ledge. Ken Eaton’s workboat is said to be the hardest-working in Maine. The hull is 73-years young, and the engine is a mere 40.

Profile of Ken Eaton
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Castine Yacht Club (pay phone: 207-326-9231). CYC is located in a modern gray building with a peaked roof beyond Eaton’s and directly opposite nun “2.” They have several well-marked guest moorings available to members of yacht clubs with reciprocal privileges, but the moorings are limited to yachts up to 40 feet, for 24 hours. Dockage is also allowed on the west float, weather and space permitting. There is water at the float, with 20 feet of depth alongside at low. Contributions for dockage or moorings are expected.
Castine Harbor Lodge (Ch. 09; 207-326-4335; www.castinemaine.com). You can’t miss this spectacular, bright yellow summer “cottage” as you enter the harbor. The lodge rents several moorings and deep dock space on their large T-shaped wharf.
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For the Crew. If you are lucky enough to be on Eaton’s docks, you’ll find Ken a gracious host. He’ll even cook lobsters for you in his boathouse. The Castine Yacht Club has showers and a pay phone. Another shower option is at the Castine Inn, up Main. The Breeze takeout, restrooms, and a pay phone are at the Town Dock.
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If you have kids, or have a yen for a good cone or outstanding crab roll yourself, be sure to visit the Variety Store, an authentic soda fountain in the heart of the town. For dinner in a charming room with a 360-degree mural of Castine, walk a short way up Main Street to the Castine Inn (326-4365). Or try the graceful old Pentagoet Inn across the street (326-8616). Make reservations in either case.
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Dennett’s Wharf was built in the 1830s as a sail loft. Now it boasts “Maine’s longest oyster bar” and hosts the annual Maine state oyster-eating championship. Dennett’s also offers meals to go and lobsters cooked or uncooked, with a dining deck overlooking the harbor. Bring a dollar for the ceiling.
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The Tarratine Market (326-4818), at Main and Water streets, has good fresh meat, fish, and produce and is also the state liquor store. There is a laundromat on Water Street, next to the market, and a bank on Main. Bah’s Bakehouse is located at the Village Inn. Just follow your nose.
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The Four Flags gift shop, on Main Street, carries boating supplies and charts. Compass Rose bookstore can lower your waterline with nautical titles.
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The Maine Maritime Academy pool is open to the public for limited periods. Check at the academy (326-4311) for times. For the Castine Community Hospital, call 207-326-4348.
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Things to Do. Most stores have the free pamphlet Welcome to Castine, which includes a map and suggested walking tours. The beautiful walk up Main Street to the earthworks at Fort George passes various old buildings and historical plaques scattered throughout the town. The steeple of the Unitarian Church, for example, was designed by Charles Bulfinch, the designer of the U.S. Capitol, and its bell is a genuine Paul Revere. One plaque, at small-boy eye-level, has a graphic description of torture by the Indians.
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The State of Maine is usually open to the public for guided tours when she is in port. When she is not on an expedition, the schooner Bowdoin may be here too. She was commanded by onetime Castine resident Admiral Donald B. MacMillan on 26 voyages of exploration to the arctic. She now sails as a training ship for Maine Maritime Academy.
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Perkins Street runs west along the shorefront, passing a number of old homes, including the J.A. Webster House, once known as “The House of Sin” because the owner worked in a shipyard on Sundays. Colonial crafts and activities are demonstrated at the John Perkins House, built in 1665. Next door are a blacksmith shop and the Wilson Museum, containing prehistoric and local treasures.
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Continue along Perkins Street, passing the earthworks of Fort Madison on the shore, to Battle Avenue and then Dice Head, with dramatic views of Penobscot Bay. The walk from the town dock to Dice Head is 1.5 miles. A fire in the spring of 1999 gutted the lighthouse keeper’s quarters, but the tower was spared. Rebuilt, the lighthouse is leased by the town and is a private residence, but the grounds are open to the public. A short path leads down to the rocks.
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The Castine Golf Club, up Main Street, welcomes visitors to use its course and its tennis courts. Cold Comfort Productions puts on summer theater in various halls and outdoors at Fort George. And Dennett’s Wharf rents mountain bikes.
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Each August, the Maine Maritime Academy sponsors the Retired Skippers Race, for male and female skippers aged 65 to 92 in boats from 27 to 60 feet. Or take a kayak outr for a spin with Castine Kayak Adventures.

Town of Castine site

 

 

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A Cruising Guide to the Maine Coast, Hank and Jan Taft, Curtis Rindlaub