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Emergency: 911
Coast Guard: 207-799-1680 Ch. 16
Sea Tow: 207-772-6724 Ch. 09, 16

PORTLAND is a rare city. It is a major shipping port, the terminus of an oil pipeline to Montreal, a center of law and banking, and a cultural center. It is Maines largest city. Yet, somehow, Portland retains the feeling of a small village with eclectic restaurants, concerts large and small, theaters both mainstream and avant-garde, museums for all ages and interests, a local baseball team, and historic buildings. You will probably bump into friends on the street.
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The city is bounded on all sides by water. To the west, below the elegant homes of the Western Promenade, flows the Fore River. Casco Bay, dotted with islands large and small, lies to the east. Back Cove fills to the north. And to the south, in the mouth of the Fore River, lies the harbor. The wharves, the very roots of the city, jam Commercial Street and comb the tides.
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Bounded on the north by Portland and on the south by (what else?) South Portland, Portland Harbor bustles with an active fishing fleet, oil tankers, navy ships, tugs, island ferries, water taxis, excursion boats, and cruise ships. It is also a major yachting center.
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Approaches. Portland Harbor is easy to enter under any conditions. The main approach is from the south. From offshore, pick up the red-and-white Portland LNB buoy P (43° 31.59N 070° 05.48W) off Cape Elizabeth, which is identifiable by its lighthouse (Fl (4) 15s 27M).
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Pass between flashing green bell 3 and flashing red whistle 4 and proceed to gong 7 off Willard Rock and then to the green lighted bell 11 off Portland Head Light (Fl 4s 24M horn). Follow the channel northward past the lighthouse on Spring Point in South Portland and bear left into the harbor. All harbor amenities are east of the Casco Bay Bridge, which spans the Fore River between Portland and South Portland.
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When entering Portland, keep an especially good lookout ahead and astern for commercial traffic and frequent ferries. In fog, keep an ear glued to the radio, and dont hesitate to place a securité call if you are in the main channel.
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The inner harbor, past the State Pier, is a no-wake zone.
Anchorages, Moorings. Once in the harbor, you can choose whether to stay on the Portland or the South Portland side. In either case, anchoring is not allowed in the inner harbor, west of the state pier, and you should try to reserve a slip in advance.
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On the north side of the harbor, DiMillos Marina has a prime location at the foot of the restored waterfront area, with city conveniences nearby. The disadvantages are the absence of moorings and the fact that you are amid the hurly-burly of downtown Portland. Portland Yacht Services has moorings at the eastern end of the harbor.
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Two town floats allow limited doking for brief periods, one at the end of the State Pier, just east of the Casco Bay Lines ferry terminal and their yellow-and-red ferries, and another deep in the slip just to the west of the terminal. Neither is ideal. The east float is newer, longer, and has more depth than the other, but it is very exposed to wash from passing boats and so narrow that it is difficult to leave. Avoid the tarred, wooden planking on the State Pier or you might end up with a new, black deck job. The inner float is hard by the Portland fireboat with very little maneuvering room and shoal water at low.
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On the South Portland side of the harbor several marinas and a yacht club squeeze among oil tanks and commercial docks. Here you can view the city in peace and quiet and watch the evening spectacle of the Scotia Prince, ablaze with lights, ghosting in from her daily run from Nova Scotia. The disadvantage here, though, is that you are somewhat removed from the city of Portland and will have to take a cab or the shuttle service from Sunset Marina. Taking a dinghy across the harbor is not recommended. As noted sailor Dodge Morgan puts it, A dinghy ride across the harbor channel is like making your way across an active airport runway on a tricycle.
PORTLAND
For the boat (waterfront from east to west). Harbormaster (Ch. 09, 16; 207-772-8121). In season, the harbormaster operates a patrol boat with large identifying lettering. His office is located in the Marine Trade Center on the Portland Fish Pier.
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Portland Yacht Services (Ch. 09, 16; 207-774-1067; www.portlandyacht.com). The expanding facilities of PYS lie at the eastern end of the harbor, directly below the Portland Observatory up on the hill. Owned by circumnavigators Phineas Sprague, Jr. and his wife Joanna, this yard is interested in cruising sailors. The moorings and docks at PYS have considerable exposure, but they are within walking distance of downtown Portland. The 18 moorings are massive, 4000-pounders. The floats,with water and pump-outs, can accommodate vessels to 120 feet with depths to 20 feet. PYS handles major restoration and repair projects to wood and glass boats, including hull, engine, outboard, rigging, and electrical work, and they have an extensive engine parts department. The yard is also home to the intriguing Maine Narrow Gauge Railway Museum and, in March, the astounding Maine Boatbuilders Show.
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DiMillos Marina (Ch. 09; 207-773-7632; www.dimillos.com). DiMillos is easily recognized from the water by its large blue-and-white floating restaurant (773-2216) made out of an old ferry. The ferry was once the Newport running between Newport and Jamestown and later the clubhouse and dry-sailing dock of the Pawtucket Yacht Club in Port Jefferson, New York.
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The marina has gas, diesel, water, pump-outs, ice, cable television hookups, and electricity to 50 amps. Piling breakwaters protect 125 slips with room for transients in 8 to 21. They can accommodate several vessels to 200 feet on the faces of their outer floats. A marine store, showers, and laundry facilities are ashore. A rich variety of restaurants, shops, and entertainment is right across Commercial Street in the Old Port Exchange.
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Gowen Inc. (Ch. 09, 16; 207-773-1761). Portlands Fish Pier is identifiable by a large beige metal building on the Portland side of the harbor and by all the fishing boats docked to the west of it. Gowens, further to the west, was once a shipyard, but now caters to recreational boats as well as commercial. They haul everything from trawlers and Casco Bay Lines ferries to yachts of all sizes with their huge 150-ton boatlift. Hull, engine, and electrical repairs can be done by the yard or on a do-it-yourself basis.
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Baykeeper II (Ch. 09; 207-776-0136). This mobile pump-out boat based in South Portland and operated by Friends of Casco Bay will, for a nominal fee, come to your boat anywhere from Portland to Freeport and do your duty.
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For the Boat (ashore). Marine Computer Systems (207-871-1575). Located in the Portland Yacht Services complex, MCS specializes in on-board computer systems for navigation, weather, and communications.
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New England Fiberglass (207-773-3537). New England Fiberglass is also located in the Portland Yacht Service complex. They can handle large and small glass repairs on your boat or at their shop.
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Hamilton Marine (207-774-1772). This branch of the famous Searsport chandlery carries almost everything you might need for your boat, whether it is a polished yacht or a working boat. They are within walking distance from the Old Port at 100 Fore Streetthe eastern end, next to Portland Yacht Services.
Odyssey Interiors (207-772-7696) is located at 70 India Street. Marnee specializes in yacht interior upholstery and cushions.
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The Chart Room at Chase Leavitt (207-772-3751, 800-638-8906; www.chaseleavitt.com). Chase Leavitt is one of Portlands oldest marine businesses, located right in the Old Port where, as shipping agents, they could service ships berthed along Commercial Street. They sell a worldwide array of charts and nautical publications and service and repair liferafts and inflatables.
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Vessel Services (207-772-5718, 800-865-9512). The chandlery at Vessel Services is on Commercial Street, past Gowens, at the west end of the Old Port. This is a true fishermans supplier, with heavy trawl gear and lobstermens supplies, but they cater to recreational boaters too. You wont find Gore-Tex foulweather gear here, but theyve got you covered for the worst the North Atlantic can dish out. They carry an extensive array of chart and charting products, including Canadian charts and cruising guides, and a full line of paints and hardware.
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Sawyer and Whitten Marine Electronics (207-879-4500). Located on Commercial Street just beyond Vessel Services, Sawyer and Whitten can handle all your electronics sales, service, and installation needs.
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West Marine (207-761-7600; www.westmarine. com). This branch of the famous national marine supplier is a mile from Commercial Street. From Casco Bay Lines, follow Franklin Arterial towards Route 295. Turn left on Marginal Way to number 127, on the left. Not only do they have a large selection of yacht hardware, cordage, and plumbing, they have a plenty of sound advice.
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For the Crew. If showers arent available where you have left the boat, the YWCA (874-1130) at 87 Spring St. has a pool, sauna, and showers. Spring parallels Commercial St. three blocks up. Your laundry can soak at Lookin Good Laundromat and Cleaners (772-6676) on Congress Street near India Street.
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To provision in the Old Port, start at Harbor Fish Market on the tiny, cobbled Custom House Wharf, two wharves to the west of Casco Bay Lines and opposite the impressive granite customs house on Commercial Street. Harbor Fish is an authentic fish market, where the fish are gutted fresh off the boats and the floors are cleaned with a hose.
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Follow your nose to the Standard Baking Company across from Casco Bay Lines for fresh breads, sticky buns, and pastries. If you cant get enough, head to the Port Bakehouse across from Dimillos.
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For gourmet wine, cheese, and the freshest fruits and vegetables in town, step into Portland Green Grocer, in the elegant granite building next door. You can round out their selection at the small-but-complete Union Wharf Market diagonally across Commercial, three piers west of DiMillos. The gourmand can head a few doors farther down to Browne Trading Company for beluga caviar and other delectables.
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Every Wednesday, a farmers market is set up right in the middle of town at Monument Square, featuring local produce and local farmers. Walk up Market Street or Exchange Street, then work your way to the left a couple of blocks.
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For major provisioning, take a bus or cab to the vast Shop n Save on Forest Avenue or the Shaws at the Mill Creek Shopping Center in South Portland. A large natural foods store is next to West Marine on Marginal Way.
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For crew logistics, the Portland Jetport (774-7301) is a short cab ride outside of town. Most car rental agencies are at the airport, but Enterprise (772-0030, 800-736-8222) is within walking distance of the waterfront on the corner of Forest Avenue and Marginal Way. The Greyhound (800-231-2222) bus station (772-6587) is at the west end of Congress Street. Trailways (800-639-3317) is a short cab ride away on Sewell Street. Metro buses (774-0351) have routes over most of the city. For long-term parking, talk to Portland Yacht Services.
SOUTH PORTLAND
For the Boat (from east to west). Spring Point Marina and Port Harbor Marine (Ch. 09; 207-767-3254, dock 767-3213; www.portharbormarine.com). This is the first marina to port as you enter Portland Harbor, just before the large oil tankers wharf. They have slip space for transients, but no moorings. The channel leading to the marina splits at the floats with the fuel dock to the right and slips to the left. To the left, at dead low, there is a less-than-5-foot spot just off dock H. The fuel dock has 9 feet at low, gas, diesel, water and ice, and a sewage pump-out, and the slips have electricity and water. The marina has a 35-ton boatlift and can perform hull, engine, rig, and electrical repairs. Ashore there is also a well-stocked ships store, a canvas shop, laundry facilities, and showers. Joe's Boathouse (741-2780), at the head of the docks, serves excellent food.
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Spring Point also manages the Breakwater Marina, just to the west, but the slips there are private with no room for transients.
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Sunset Marina (Ch. 09; 207-767-4729). After passing the long oil pipeline terminal pier, can 5, and storybook little Bug Light, you will see the slips of Sunset Marina directly across the harbor from Portlands Old Port. If you should be so lucky, their face floats can accommodate transients to 250 feet with ample depth. Gas, diesel, water, pump-outs, ice, and 50-amp shore power are available, as well as showers and laundry facilities ashore. The Sea Dog Tavern and Grill (799-6055) overlooks the docks, or if you would prefer a night on the town, Sunset offers a shuttle service across the harbor.
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Maine Shipyard (207-767-1914). Known for years as the South Portland Shipyard, this is the countrys oldest working shipyard. Its weathered red and yellow sheds are just to the west of Sunset Marina and couldnt be more of a contrast. Massive marine railways haul boats to 400 tons, a 25-ton crane towers overhead, and Black Beauty crunches underfoot. This yard was one of two in South Portland to build Liberty Ships in record time and numbers for the war effort in the 1940s. Now under the management of George Drivas, its mainstay is still commercial work, but pleasure boats are an increasing part of its business. The yard can do major hull repairs and repairs to engines and rigs. This is not a marina, however, and they do not have transient dockage or moorings, nor do they pump fuel or have any shoreside amenities.
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Centerboard Yacht Club (Ch. 68; 207-799-7084). This friendly and unassuming yacht club has a substantial fleet of cruising boats and moorings for transients. Centerboard is beyond Maine Shipyards red sheds on the south side of Portland Harbor. The small clubhouse has big CYC letters on the roof.
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The club has several guest moorings and keeps track of members who are away cruising. No fuel is available, but water and a head pump are on the long finger float, which has four feet of depth at low. A shower, ice, and a pay phone are ashore.
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It is quite pleasant to lie at a CYC mooring, gazing across at Portlands twinkling lights and listening to the low growl of the city in the distance, rocked occasionally by the wash of some large vessel passing. The harbor is the path for jets from Portlands airport, but pilots tend to sleep later than lobstermen.
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South Port Marine (Ch. 09; 207-799-8191) is the marina farthest into the harbor on the South Portland side, just before the new Casco Bay Bridge crossing into Portland. It has the advantage of being closer to Portland by land than any of the other South Portland marinas, and it is within walking distance of the supermarkets at the Mill Creek Shopping Center. If your boat draws more than 4 1/2 feet, however, enter at half-tide or better, and follow the channel markers carefully.
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The outside floats have 6 feet of depth at low and hook-ups for water, pump-outs, electricity to 50 amps, phone and cable. Boats can be hauled with the 60-ton boatlift for repairs to hull or engine. Showers, laundry, a small chandlery, and ice are ashore. The Snow Squall Restaurant (799-2232) is next door.
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For the Boat (ashore). Reo Marine (207-767-2519). Located a couple of blocks inland from Sunset Marina, Reo Marine specializes in powerboats. Their shop services outboards, outdrives, and inboards of all kinds, and they have a small ships store.
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For the Crew. A laundromat, a hardware store, and two major grocery stores are located in the Mill Creek Shopping Center in South Portland near the Casco Bay Bridge.
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Things to Do. In South Portland, the Spring Point walkway winds along the waterfront starting just east of Spring Point Marina and leading to the breakwater and the Spring Point Light, the grounds and buildings of Civil War-vintage Fort Preble, and the pre-Revolutionary Old Settlers Cemetery. On the way you will find the headquarters of Friends of Casco Bay (799-8574, www.cascobay.org), a group dedicated to preserving the health and the beauty of Casco Bay. You will also find the growing Portland Harbor Museum (799-6337, www. portlandharbormuseum.org, Mon.- Sun., 10 AM 4:30 PM), which houses maritime exhibits on Portland harbor and shipbuilding in the 19th century.
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From South Portland, Portland can be reached by crossing the arching span of the Casco Bay Bridge. This new bridge replaced the Million Dollar Bridge, so nicknamed by outraged taxpayers because that was the appalling sum earmarked to build it in 1913. It actually cost a little less. Measure time in dollars: the replacement bridge cost $165 million. But what that money bought was a much-needed wider opening for tankers heading up the Fore River. In 1996, navigating the squeeze under the old bridge, the Julie N struck one of the piers and gashed a hole in its hull, spilling 180,000 gallons of oil.
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Choices in Portland can be overwhelming. This little city packs more culture than most cities twice its size. Its shops are varied and interesting, its restaurants daring and reasonable. The main shopping districts of the Old Port and the Congress Street area are all within walking distance. The free Casco Bay Weekly newspaper or Portland Press Heralds Audience or Go sections might help you plan your time. You may need to stay longer than you planned.
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Major fires destroyed the Portland peninsula on at least two occasions. The worst, in 1866, was set by a Fourth of July firecracker. The fires gave rise to the current architecture of the citythe brick warehouse area along the waterfront now known as the Old Port, the rebuilt, workingmans Munjoy Hill to the east, and the grand mansions of the West End, many of which were spared. Portlands motto, Resurgam, means I will rise again.
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For walking tour information, visit the Wadsworth-Longfellow House on Congress Street where Longfellow grew up, now home to the Portland Historical Society. The Maine History Gallery is next door. Or you might explore the Victorian Mansion on Danforth Street.
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On Munjoy Hill, climb all 102 steps to the top of the recently restored Portland Observatory (www.portlandlandmarks.org/observatory.htm), which was built in 1807 to alert merchants when their ships entered the harbor. Kids might like the Portland Fire Museum on Spring Street or the Narrow-Gauge Railway Museum at Portland Yacht Services.
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At the heart of Portlands art scene is The Portland Museum of Art on Congress Street, with a superb collection of Winslow Homer paintings, works by other Maine artists, Impressionist paintings, and traveling exhibits. Next door is the new Childrens Museum, the states largest, featuring a rooftop camera obscura which projects sights of the harbor onto a viewing table. The Maine College of Art, with several galleries, is nearby, and, for discounted gear, so is an L.L. Bean factory store.
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For music or theater, investigate the Portland Center for the Performing Arts on Forest Avenue and the schedule of the Portland Symphony. In the summer, free lunchtime concerts are performed outside at Monument Square on Congress Street.
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If you still yearn to be waterborne, the Scotia Prince leaves daily for Yarmouth, Nova Scotia and, freed of national gambling restrictions, the boat ride becomes a trip in itself. Numerous excursion boats leave from the Commercial Street area as well as the Casco Bay Lines ferries (774-7871), which have served the islands continuously since 1871, the oldest such ferry service in the country.BROUGHT YOU THIS INFORMATION. BUY THE GUIDE!
7/10/02 Congratulations to Harbormaster John Flynn on his retirement. Welcome Eric Pearce as the new harbormaster. PS Thank you Eric for your help with my mooring registration today.--Curtis Rindlaub
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