SAILING to Grand Manan is a grand adventure for cruising boats. There is a definite feeling of setting out to sea toward a foreign land, and the sunlit cliffs of the western shore are infinitely alluring on a clear day. When the fog shuts in, the voyage is an anxious one, but the bold shores of the island make it reasonably easy to approach in safety.
COPYRIGHT 2006 DIAMOND PASS PUBLISHING
Because U.S. maps and charts usually eliminate Grand Manan, a great many Americans are unaware that it exists, only six miles off our shores. Simple and old-world in feeling, Grand Manan is absorbed with fishing and the sea. Tides are more important than the clock, a man’s boat more sacred than his car. Since you have cruised this far, take time to visit Grand Manan and allow yourself a few days on this special island.
COPYRIGHT 2006 DIAMOND PASS PUBLISHING
The Passamaquoddy Indians called it “Mun-a-nook” which means, simply, “island place.” Settlement was spurred by British Loyalists fleeing the American Revolutionary War. Now there is charter-plane service to an airstrip on the island, but most of the inhabitants are linked to the outside world by ferry service from Blacks Harbour on the New Brunswick mainland, a 20-mile trip. With only a handful of lodgings and restaurants, Grand Manan is not geared for tourism, though ferry service six times a day in oceanliner-sized boats is beginning to change island life. Still, tourists are given the wonderful name of “strangers-from-away,” and people come here to enjoy the simple pleasures.
COPYRIGHT 2006 DIAMOND PASS PUBLISHING
It seems that the colder and harsher the environment, the warmer and more hospitable its inhabitants. And so it is here. The people of Grand Manan are extremely friendly and courteous. “If you need help,” they say, “just stop anyone and ask.”
COPYRIGHT 2006 DIAMOND PASS PUBLISHING
The large draggers and seiners of Grand Manan are freshly painted in brilliant greens and reds and blues, almost as though the paint salesman had just come through town—typical of islands where the predominant color is fog gray. The fishing fleet appears remarkably sturdy, new, and well maintained. The big trawlers head north to fish off Nova Scotia, and their catch is sold to factory ships at sea. Cod and halibut are taken in the waters off Grand Manan, though they are increasingly scarce. Lobster fishing begins in November and lasts until June, but to protect the stocks, each lobsterman is limited to 375 traps. Draggers and divers catch scallops and urchins, and herring are seined from weirs.
COPYRIGHT 2006 DIAMOND PASS PUBLISHING
Like boats, each weir has a name: Admiral, Jubilee, Hard Luck, Grit, and Try Again. The enormous Bay of Fundy tides require that the weirs have very long poles, driven into the bottom with floating pile drivers. The Grand Manan herring weir fishery is the largest in the Bay of Fundy, and much of the catch is sold directly to factory ships for export. The picturesque fish-smoking industry has all but disappeared, though some of the weathered shingle smokehouses still stand. Herring were racked inside them above smoldering spruce and hemlock fires until they were cured.
COPYRIGHT 2006 DIAMOND PASS PUBLISHING
Dulse, a kind of edible seaweed raked from the rocks of Dark Harbour on the west side of the island. It was also valued in the past century as a source of iodine, to prevent goiter.
COPYRIGHT 2006 DIAMOND PASS PUBLISHING
More than 300 species of birds have been identified on Grand Manan, and its walking trails are a paradise for hikers, birders, and photographers. The trails along the rugged shoreline and on top of the high cliffs of the northern and western side are particularly spectacular, providing views of interesting geological formations like “Hole in the Wall.” Near the south end of the island, an aptly named cluster of white glacial erratics is called “Flock of Sheep.”
COPYRIGHT 2006 DIAMOND PASS PUBLISHING
Lobstering season in this part of Canada ends on the last Friday in June, so the waters around Grand Manan are pleasantly free of lobster buoys during the summer. In late June, fishermen drag loads of lobster traps ashore on homemade sledges and stack them in colorful piles. On July 1, Canada Day, there are water sports and other events, including a greasy-pole contest.
COPYRIGHT 2006 DIAMOND PASS PUBLISHING
The two best harbors for boats drawing 6 feet or more are North Head and Seal Cove, at either end of the island. Both are man-made and easy to reach.
Most of the east coast of Grand Manan is strewn with islands, ledges, and shoals, among which the strong tidal currents swirl and tumble. The passages between Ross, Cheney, and White Head Island dry out at low. Local fishermen use these passages and know the signs that indicate when time is running out, but strangers shouldn’t try them. If you see what little is left of these passages at low tides, you’ll be glad you left them to the locals.
COPYRIGHT 2006 DIAMOND PASS PUBLISHING
The shoals that stretch southeastward from White Head Island—Bulkhead Rip, Clarks Ground, and Old Proprietor Shoal—are even more dangerous. Here the current runs 4 to 6 knots, and heavy rips build up on the ebb. Heading north on a flood tide with good visibility, you might have a lovely sail. In the fog or against the ebb among the shoals, it could be a nightmare. The most conservative approach is to avoid the east coast of Grand Manan altogether or to stay outside the 50-fathom curve, well away from its dangers.
COPYRIGHT 2006 DIAMOND PASS PUBLISHING
There are various ways to get around Grand Manan and see the sights. The island is 14 miles long, so walking the whole way is impractical. Bikes can be rented, there is a small car rental operation, and taxis are available (see North Head). Hitchhiking is also an option.
BROUGHT YOU THIS INFORMATION. BUY THE GUIDE!
Chamber of commerce.
New Brunswick Tourism: Grand Manan
ferry schedules and rates
North Head Harbor
Seal Cove
From A Cruising Guide to the Maine Coast