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Dear Sailors,
Welcome back to Maine. The weather this spring has been the best
anyone can remember, with nearly summer-like days and record-breaking
temperatures even in May. We're hoping this is a sign of things
to come.
Indigo and crew--Curtis, Carol, Nathaniel, and Hannah--have just returned
from a winter of cruising the beautiful Bahamas. This was our
first sail south, and we couldn't have enjoyed it more. But we
return with renewed appreciation for deep water under our keel
and fresh water in our tanks and the sweet salty pine smell of
Maine. There's no place like home...there's no place like home...
Thank you again for your continued support in the way of comments,
suggestions, and encouragement for A Cruising Guide to the Maine Coast (see our list of contributors and comments). I greatly appreciate them. Because I am late in the season
with this Notices, it will not be printed and mailed to those of you on our mailing
list. Rather, it will be e-mailed to all who have an e-mail address
and posted here. Please, if you know of anyone who is still in
the dark ages (and I'm envious of them!), please print a copy
of these changes and pass it along. Also, please note that I have
finally updated our web site, and I promise to stay more on top
of it. Please keep us on your list of bookmarks.
We wish you a summer filled with wind, waves, water, good friends
and family, and boats. If you find more changes, please contact us.
Sincerely,
Curtis Rindlaub
order books
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previous Notices to Maine Cruisers
INTRODUCTION
Fishing, p. 9
Please note the new striper regulations in Appendix F in the previous
Notices to Maine Cruisers.
Emergency Help, p. 22, par. 1
Aubin Dupree reminds us that licenses for VHF radios are no longer
required.
CASCO BAY
Portland
If your draft is near 35 feet, you'll be pleased to know that
the Portland Harbor has been dredged for the first time in 15
years. To accommodate the lobstermen who trap in Portland Harbor,
the ten-month project was squeezed into six and then two, between
December and May. Part of this project involved trapping young
lobsters in special small--mesh traps for relocation, a first
in the annals of dredging. Over a thousand lobsters were caught
in the first three days--more than anyone dared to guess, a proof
positive that not all lobsters headed for deeper offshore waters
in the fall. The lobsters were catalogued and tagged so that their
movement can be tracked each time they are caught in the future.
Who said dredging is boring?
You won't see much of the Portland Observatory from the water
this summer. Its crowning cap has been removed by crane and the
historic structure is enshrouded in scaffolding as part of renovation
efforts to rid it of little anoid beetles, which over the years
have done what storms could not.
Offshore, the Portland Harbor Approach lighted whistle Buoy 4
has been slightly relocated to 43-33-55.6N, 070-02-13.2W (chart
13286).
South Portland, p. 66
The Spring Point Museum has acquired the spark plug Spring Point
Light through the Maine Lights Program, which helped the US Coast
Guard give away its historical lighthouses to non-profit organizations
which can take care of them. In the process, the museum has changed
its name to The Portland Harbor Museum. It is still in the same
location on Spring Point.
Peaks Island, for the crew, p. 69
If you sail by Peaks Island on a Sunday afternoon, you might think
you are in Jamaica. Jones' Landing's Sunday reggae jam has become
somewhat of a Woodstock on the water, complete with buzzing jet
skis (and buzzed drivers?) and patrons so scantily clad that it
will make your goose bumps stand up just to look at them. Depending
on your temperament, this is either the place to avoid, or the
place to be.
Great Chebeague Island, p. 72
Yikes! We almost lost Chebeague. A cruiser and resident told me
he couldn't find it in the Index. Please look under "Great Chebeague."
Robert White reminds us that we've overlooked the Great Chebeague
Island Boatyard on the island's east side. This is truly what
a boatyard should be, with boats hauled into a field by an old
tractor, kids jumping into the water off the floats, and the smell
of paint and grass and salt air. In addition to their repair services,
they have gas and water at their float and guest moorings. Diesel
delivery can be arranged by truck. Beware, however, if you approach
their float at low water; depth is only several feet. The grocery
store is a 15 minute walk away.
Snow Island, Quahog Bay, p. 89-90
Paul and Kym Cournoyer report an uncharted rock off the mainland
east of Snow Island, known as Ratherby Rock. "It's located off
of the 'cliff' to the southeast of Ben Island. It is awash at
low water but lurks unknowingly otherwise...ready to scar one's
ego..." He shows it on the chart between a 9 and a 2-foot sounding.
Small Point Harbor, p. 91-92
Bill Dill writes, "In your book, the harbor at Small Point gets
dismissive mention as hard to enter, not easy to find space there,
and a rival to New Jersey for mosquitoes. That and other people's
ratings have kept us from trying it. Yet you are tied in Septmebers
Cruising World to some undetailed, but very favorable words about
it. Mosquitoes aside (since even Sebasco boasts lots of those),
what is your current reading of the harbor as an anchorage for
a couple of cruising boats?" Answer: Shhhh!!! (and who are those
other people anyway?)
Sebasco Harbor, p 93-94
The new management at Sebasco Harbor Resort is getting good reports
from cruisers who have stopped there. The $20/night cost of moorings
includes a launch service and the use of the amenities ashore.
Their new Pilot House restaurant is open for breakfasts and dinner
(reservations are required). They monitor Ch. 9 after mid June.
Cundys Harbor, p. 95-96
We really should have mentioned the Block and Tackle restaurant
in Cundys Harbor, just a short walk out of town. This is where
the locals hang out, and for good reason. Patten Williams sums
it up in a persuasive plug for his sister's eatery: "remember
half a lobster in a cup of lobster stew and a whole lobster in
a bowl?" Now that's advertising.
The Basin, New Meadows River, p. 96
Ken Pecci has this sad news to report: "The Basin was pretty much
a zoo last summer--jetskis zooming around vessels at all times
of day and larger rafts of motorboats with people more ntent on
having a party than enjoying the lost tranquility." On the plus
side, we stopped there after an extensive cruise of the coast
as far as Passamaquoddy Bay. We went to sleep beneath shooting
stars and woke to the screech of ospreys echoing off the shores
that floated above the water on the morning fog, and decided this
was as beautiful a place as any on the coast.
MIDCOAST
NOS has produced new charts 13295 "Kennebec and Sheepscot River
Entrances (10th ed., 6/13/98)" and 13296 "Boothbay Harbor to Bath,
Including the Kennebec River (24th ed., 7/11/98)."
Kennebec River, p. 103
Sometimes a free lighthouse is just too good a deal to pass up.
Squirrel Point Light, on the Kennebec River, was mysteriously
given by the US Coast Guard to a real estate dealer, while all
other applicable structures were put into the Maine Lights Program
to find new, non-profit owners with a stable enough financial
base to keep them maintained. The real estate broker--surprise!--promptly
put the lighthouse on the market for a half million dollars.
Fort Poham, p. 106
Bud Warren of Phippsburg is leading a crusade of modern pilgrims
to raise funds to build a replica of the Popham Colonist's Virgina of Sagadahoc, the first English vessel to be constructed in the New World.
It's hard to decide which is the more daunting task. Good luck.
If you would like to become involved, Bud's number is 207-389-2719.
Sasanoa River, Inside Passage, p. 113, col. 2, par.. 6
This correction was on the errata card enclosed with most books,
noted in the first Notices to Maine Cruisers, and corrected in
later printings: "...begin making passage from east to west..."
should read "...from west to east."
On lines 17 and 18 of page 114, we write that the Carlton Ledges
are "visible at any tide." We stand corrected. John Hilpman writes
"Dead wrong! Over the sixty odd years we have lived here onthe
river, we cannot recall a single summer when the Carlton Ledges
have been visible at high tide. Through the years, we have witnessed
many groundings on the Carlton Ledges--both sail and power boats.
Most cases were simply inexcusable, and could have been avoided
by looking at the charts...My dock lies about 200' east of the
Carlton Ledges, and stranded mariners are welcome to come ashore,
use the phone, have a beer, and wait for the next high tide to
refloat their vessels." If that's not an invitation to hit a rock,
I don't know of one! P.S. Don't forget to correct your book.
Townsend Gut, p. 123-124
Donald Armington writes that the swing bridge across Townsend
Gut now monitors Ch. 09, rather than 16 or 13.
Isle of Springs, p. 124
How did that knife and fork get there? Albert and Sue Hutchinson
report that there hasn't been a restaurant on the island since
the Depression. We knew that. Really we did.
Sawyer Island, p. 124
The non-profit Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens is planning to
build the finest public garden north of Boston at the southern
end of Barters Island. In 1995, they rescued a 128-acre planned
subdivision before a single house was built. Nature trails have
been established, and small, pocket gradens are planned. For more
inforamtion, call 207-633-4333.
Wiscasset, p. 128, photo, p. 127
The remains ofthe schooners Hesper and Luther Little are gone. The wrecks graced the Wiscasset waterfront for almost
70 years, but by last spring there was so little remaining of
the hulks that, among much sentiment, a dredge company was hired
to remove them. The schooners, however, will long be a symbol
for the town. The next time you get a speeding ticket here, look
carefully at that officers badge and at his cruiser. The schooners
sail on...
Little River, Linekin Neck, p. 137
The buoyage into Little River may have changed. We've had one
report that the can shown on our harbor chart is no longer there,
just the daymark. The Spar Shed Marina is now updated and modernized.
Jack and Gina Wallace write "There is now a separate building
with a shower and bathroom facilities. The pickup buoys are nested
neatly on the freshly painted mooring balls, and the entire marina
smells of freshness and neatness. We also rowed out to the entrance
at low tide and there appeared to be plenty of water, despite
the five-foot marking on the chart."
And even more good news. Pete Yesmentes, Dock Committee Chairman
of Boothbay Shores Association writes to inform cruisers of a
free guest mooring they maintain for visitors, located in the
outer harbor, marked "PUBLIC MOORING." It has an 800 lb and 35'
of 3/4" chain and can accomodate a 35'-long, 7'-draft vessel.
"The only rules are: enjoy it. Limit the boat stay to three night's
use. First come first serve. Use at own risk." Thank you! Thank
you! Thank you!
Harbor seals, p. 138
The new stranding hotline is 207-851-6625. You'll be connected
to the new Northeast Marine Animal Lifeline.
Damariscotta, p. 145
John Spinner and A.S. Wells report that Schooner Landing has no
dockage or yachting services, only a restaurant.
Muscongus Bay
Here are a few chart corrections for charts 13301, 13302, and
13288:
Relocate Old Man Ledge lighted whistle buoy "2OM," off Allen Island,
to 43-50-16.6N, 069-18-50.3W.
Relocate Martin Point buoy "12," off Friendship Long Island, to
43-57-45.8N, 069-21-58.9W.
Hog Island, Muscongus Bay, p. 156-157
"Perhaps Audubon's Hog Island is just too beautiful. So many cruisers
stopped there that we tried to tone down Audubon's welcome in
the latest edition of the Guide, so the island wouldn't be overrun
and so that Audubon would continue to be so generous in sharing
this special place with cruisers. No such luck. In reviewing their
policy toward cruisers, Hog Island's new manager Scott Saunders
writes, "Please delete all of this entry with the exception of
your piloting tips through the Narrows. You may make reference
to a nature trail located on the mainland. Please specify that
absolutely no dogs are permitted on mainland sanctuary. For information
on attending the Audubon Workshop call 203-869-2017." Needless
to say, use of the moorings is not allowed either. In the meantime,
please correct our typo on page 156, para. 2; "county" ahould
read "country.
PENOBSCOT BAY
A new edition (the 19th, 6/20/98) of chart 13302, "Penobscot Bay
and Approaches," is available from NOS. Note the following corrections
to charts 13305 and 13308:
Matinicus, p.181-185
Alice and Ed Girvin report that the rental moorings in the harbor
are now blue and white, not yellow (p. 183). If you pick up a
yellow one, you'll be hanging on a lobster trap.
Matinicus Rock, p.186
Delete Matinicus Rock Whistle Buoy "12MR" from your charts (13302,
13006, 13003, 13260, 13009).
Tenants Harbor, p. 189
The Cod End charges for water, even if you are a fuel customer.
There is a laundromat in town, just past the market.
Home Harbor, Two-Bush Channel, p. 194
On charts 13305 and 13308, relocate Halibut Rock buoy "2B" to
43-59-00.7N, 069-02-58.9W.
Owls Head, p. 196
On charts 13305 and 13308, relocate Owls Head Ledge buoy "7" to
44-05-25.0N, 069-02-31.8W. Note that in the Chart Kit, this is
flagged as a (now incorrect) waypoint.
Marjorie and Bill Goettle report descovering an "upscale general
store" up the hill from P.K. Reed's near the post office.
Rockport, p. 203
If the "Rockport Roll" doesn't dissuade you from trying to anchor
in Rockport, the moorings might. Depths outside the mooring field
are reported to be about 65 feet!
Warren Island, p. 232
The Goettles report that the mooring balls at Warren Island have
changed from white to red. There are five of them, marked "Warren
Isl S. P." The "water near the dock," they add, is misleading.
It is available, but only up a long hill, made longer with heavy
jugs!
Pulpit Harbor, p. 210-211
Perhaps we haven't been totally honest in our description of Pulpit
Harbor. Several of our readers have been surprised to discover
that they don't have Pulpit to themselves, and those unlucky enough
to have their visit coincide with a yacht club cruise or a busy
weekend at the height of the windjamming season may feel downright
crowded. Buts all the boats here are here for the same reason--the
protected anchorage, the serene beauty, and the stunning backdrop
of the Camden Hills.
There is no longer a trash bin at the public dock (p. 211, par.
6). Please don't bring your trash ashore.
North Haven, p. 214-215
We've had reports that the water at Brown's float can be a bit
skunky. Taste before you tank.
Perry Creek, p. 215-216
New trails run along each side of the inner harbor, leading through
conservation land to clear vistas. It's hard to believe Perry
Creek could get any better.
Seal Bay, P. 220, par. 2
This correction was included in our errata card and in the previous
Notices to Maine Cruisers. This error is corrected in the second printings of both the
hardcover and softcover editions. Please be sure your Guide is corrected for this dangerous error.
"Follow the deep water...leaving Turning Rock to starboard (not
to port). Note the submerged rock...and due east (not west) of
Hay Island." The chart of the approach on page 219 is correct.
Laireys Narrows, p. 221
The approach to Laireys Narrows from Fox Island Thorofare has
changed. Seal Ledge buoy "3" has been renumbered to buoy "5."
Inner Bay Ledges buoy "5" is now "7." And Green Island Ledge nun
"2," off Green Island in the western approach to Laireys Narrows,
has been relocated to 44-04-21.0N, 068-55-06.6W.
Carvers Harbor and vicinity, p. 226
On charts 13305 and 13308, relocate Breakers Sunken Ledge buoy
"2," south of Carvers Harbor and Greens Island, to 44-01-04.5N,
068-51-32.5W.
Gilkey Harbor, p. 230
T. Caplow reports that the lighthouse on Grindle Point is now
automated and operational.
Searsport, p. 239-240.
Nun "2" marking Long Cove Ledge has been repositioned to 44-26
43.6N, 068-54-32.5W.
Tom Cod Cove, p. 252
Allen Martin writes: "The Holbrook Island Sancuary ranger of 20
years assures us that lobsterboats were eliminated from the anchorage
in 1985, that he has installed one mooring buoy and will be installing
six more (red buoys), free to the public. Other moorings belong
to the Castine Y.C.. 'Private' float is for the ranger's boat,."
Dinghies may land at the dock of the Maine Department of Public
Conservation.
Butter Island, p. 258
Have you ever dreamed of owning an island? Here are the hard realities
of what that entails, published here not only so we know the new
rules, but also as a reminder of the huge debt of gratitude cruisers
owe private landowners who have managed, at great personal expense
and effort, to keep the Maine coast as beautiful as it is. I continue
to marvel at their generosity in sharing their treasures with
us. Please, when you visit islands such as Butter, keep your presence
to a minimum: keep your group small, talk softly, tread lightly.
Rob Cabot, grandson of the greatest island-lover of all, writes
the following:
"Fifty-five years ago my grandfather, Tom Cabot, purchased Butter
Island in Penobscot Bay. He claimed to have purchased more than
forty islands over the 98 years of his life. Eventually, he preserved
these islands by giving them to conservation organizations, friends,
and even the government. I remember him telling me that back in
those days there were few pleasure boats in these waters. In fact,
if he saw a sailboat on the horizon, he would know exactly who
it was. He enjoyed having yachtsmen and locals alike visit Butter
Island since their use was so unobtrusive and infrequent. In the
early 70's he decided to act on his own beliefs of land conservation
by putting a conservation easement on Butter Island. Over the
decades he witnessed the enormous increase in the number of people
who visited the island and realized that keeping the entire island
open to the public was unrealistic. Now that our family is frequenting
the island more, it is time to revise our public access policy.
"As the number of visitors has increased dramatically over the
past few years, Butter has lost some of its solitude and charm.
For example, one particular evening last summer we counted 150
people ashore at the same time. Three schooners were having a
lobster bake on the beach. A variety of pleasure boaters and kayakers
were ashore exploring the island. Still others were camping in
and out of the designated campsites. This overwhelming number
of people has had a negative impact on everyone's island experience.
We are also concerned about the long-term ecological health of
the island.
"Although most people enjoy the island in a responsible manner,
some method of controlling access must be instituted. By restricting
all commercial use, we hope to preserve the private boat owners'
enthusiasm to make the voyage to Butter Island.
"The following are the preliminary guidelines that will be implemented
this summer:
- Commercial enterprises will no longer be welcome. This includes
schooners landing ashore for hikes or lobster bakes, kayak outfitters,
or day trip boats for hire.
- Visiting private boat owners will only be allowed to use Orchard
Beach and Nubble Beach on the east side of the island, and to
hike the trail leading up Montserrat Hill to a granite bench overlooking
these two coves.
- No one is welcome anywhere else on the island except by special
invitation of the Cabot Family.
- Camping will continue to be limited to Maine Island Trail Association
members who have made a reservation, and certain not-for-profit
groups that have been using the island with special permission.
The campsite on the north side of the island has been closed.
The existing Orchard Beach campsite shall remain open and a new
site has been designated on Nubble Beach. Both camping areas are
on the east side of Butter Island.
-All camping will now be by reservation only. MITA campers must
first call and make a reservation for a particular campsite on
a particular day. We recommend that people make their reservations
well in advance to avoid being denied a campsite. I can be reached
directly at (207) 596-6146 for all reservations. Camping will
be limited to three nights with a maximum group size of 8 people.
Not-for-profit groups must first contact me to receive special
permission on an individual basis.
"We will continue to have Bob Quinn of neighboring Eagle Island
patrol the shore to check memberships and reservations. In addition,
we have hired two caretakers to live on and patrol the island.
They will insure that visitors remain on the two designated east
facing beaches and the trail up Montserrat Hill.
"We apologize to all those who have been visiting Butter Island
for years and can now no longer hike the entire island, but we
have no alternative if we want to preserve the island experience
and its ecology."
Bucks Harbor, p. 254-255
Bucks Harbor Marine sells wine and has an inside shower as well
as their famous outdoor one. What more could you want? Well. To
use the head, perhaps. One cruiser reports that his two crew were
refused use of BHM's head because they were not on a Bucks Harbor
mooring this time, even though they have been loyal customers
in the past. Understandably, a marina is not a public facility
and there are costs involved in providing and maintaining such
facilities. But when you've gotta go, you've gotta go (but don't
go in the harbor!). Whatever happened to those coin-op stalls
anyway?
Isle au Haut, p. 262-264
Approaches. Caution: the dredged channel of the Isle au Haut Thorofare has
filled in along the sides. The Goettles report seeing two sailboats
aground there last summer. Moorings. The two rental moorings are now marked "rent," and the "canister"
is a Pepsi bottle. Things to do. Island Bicycle Rentals has peddled off somewhere. Richard Verge
reports that the number was disconnected. He highly recommends
the Backyard Restaurant's lobster rolls for lunch. The trailhead
fo the Duck Harbor Trail through Acadia National Park can be reached
by turning right from the town dock and walking about 1/3-mile
to the ranger station. The trail leaves from behind the station.
MOUNT DESERT
Stonington, 270-273
Stonington's reputation as a frontier town of the east remains
intact. Jack and Gina Wallace report the following "very disgruntling
experience:"
"As we were approaching Stonington from the south with Crotch
Island on our western side under full sail, and another sailboat
was motoring in our same direction about fifty feet to our west,
an overtaking lobster boat suddenly increased power and split
the difference between the two sailboats. Big grins were evident
on the sternmens' and captain's faces. Put this down to youthful
exuberance, but four days later a similar incident occurred. While
approaching the eastern entrance to Eggemoggin Reach, another
lobster boat again suddenly sped up and "buzzed" us in making
a long approach to his lobster pots which were located a full
quarter mile away. These types of incidents will assure that we
leave wide berth around Stonington in the future." Alas, that
was probably exactly what they hoped.
Despite the fact that lobster buoys are everywhere, lobstering
is a very territorial business. Years of tradition and aggressive
defense of home "turf" has led to unmapped and unspoken boundaries
of who can and cannot set traps and where. Sometimes the same
mentality spills over onto the surface. "Who are those guys,"
you can almost here them think, "sailing on MY water?"
To balance this report, I quote the Riverside Yacht Club Burgee after a club cruise to Maine. "...I thought I had escaped being
exposed for my unortunate grounding last summer while exiting
that beautiful anchorage protected by the islands of Camp/Bold/Devil
adjacent to Stonington. No such luck!!...
"The capatin of the lobsterboat Nigh Duck gets the credit for
pulling us off, but in all the confusion Nigh Duck took off before
I could properly thank him for his good deed. Upon our return
to Riverside I wrote the postmaster of Stonington and gave him
all the details of what had happened. In that letter I enclosed
a letter addressed to 'The Captain of the Nigh Duck, Stonington,
ME' with a thank you note and a check made out to cash. Well the
good postmaster was able to deliver my letter resulting in a very
nice note from a Bill Baker--copy attatched! How about that?!
Who says those Maine lobstermen are not caring people..."
Bill Baker writes back: "Amazingly your letter and check reached
me. I say amazingly because I've only lived here since April and
it's hard to believe the postmasterknows the name of my boat!
I don't think they even know who I am. Anyway, if it makes you
feel better, I pulled 3 boats off of Ledges and a fourth not far
from where you grounded and waited for the tide to come up. I
enjoy 'rescuing' people. I didn't expect to get paid, but it will
come in handy this winter..."
Merchants Row, chart, p. 271
Saddleback Island is one of the easternmost island is in e archipelago
of Merchants Row. Just to its south lies little Enchanted Island.
And between the two lies a tempting little tickle on the edge
of Jericho Bay. Don't be. The "shoal rep." on the chart is really
there. Andrew Oldman wirtes "The passage is a lovely one and one
is apt to disregard 'shaol rep.' as non existent. I had blithely
sailed through here (at high tide) and the sounder made a scary
blip as we passed over it.." But the next time through "we grounded
out at low tide on some nasty rocks for a couple of minutes."
He adds that the lobstermen seem to mark it privately with a pair
of buoys tied together.
Camp Island, p. 275
It seems like someone took our advice. The 11-foot spot we so
highly recommended as the place to drop your hook is now occupied
by a mooring.
Eggemoggin Reach, p. 281 and Blue Hill Bay
The eastern end of Eggemoggin Reach has a new bell buoy "EE,"
with red and white stripes and a red topmark. Add it to charts
13312 and 13316 at 44-12-45.0N, 068-32-18.3W.
Center Harbor, p. 282-283
Maine's legenday boatbuilder and designer passed away a year ago
December. His vision lives on in some of the most beautiful boats
afloat at their moorings off his Brooklin Boat Yard. He will be
sadly missed. Moorings. Mooring rentals is not a particularly encouraged part of this
hard-working boatyard's business. The moorings are disguised as
lobster trap buoys. There is a phone in front of the post office.
Burnt Coat Harbor, Swan's Island, p. 288
The payphone is by the post office, not by the firehouse. Anchorages.
The goettles question ore description of "good holding" here,
reporting that their Bruce harvested seaweed and that a big Hinckley
dragged while they were there in August, also with a fouled anchor.
If you anchor, be certain your hook is well set. The rental moorings
are still available. They also report that the Swan's Island Boathouse
restaurant closed on 8/30/98. Whether this was their end-of-season
closing or a permanent one, we don't yet know.
Frenchboro, p. 289-291
Frenchboro no longer has a market of any kind. One sailor writes
that "there is no longer French toast available in Frenchboro!!!"
Lunt's has a pay phone on thier building, but it was reproted
to be good for credit-card calls only.
Expect to see more people when you visit. The Goettles report
that last year the school had two students, two pre-schoolers,
and "one resident pregnant."
If you visit Frenchboro this season, don't let on that you know
us. Last summer Lunt Harbor was the site of one of our worst "boob
maneuvers" when we attempted to sail off one of Lunt's moorings.
Of course, the mooring was way up harbor, and the harbor was jam-packed
with boats after Frenchboro's lobster festival, but the wind,
once we got turned around, would be dead astern, for an easy run
out, and hoisting the main in the protection of the harbor seemed
easier that doing it while we soaked up the spray outside.
Alas, I cast off just as a lobsterboat was drifting down harbor
with her skipper busy tending to something astern, so I held Indigo in irons for what seemed like several eternities until his head
popped up in the wheel house and he swung her hard over, narrowly
passing us by. But during all that luffing, Indigo was drifting sideways, so now my already tight turning room had
been reduced by a third, down to about two and a half boat lengths.
I put the helm hard over and we fell off, first to a reach, then...
Well, let me put it this way: our main sheeting system is far
from high-tech. She doesn't run out well, and sheeting her in
can be like walking an untrained dog. At this particular moment--and
I was fast running out of moments--she just wasn't running out.
The fact that the bitter end was reinventing the coil at my feet
didn't help. But with the main not easing any farther than perfect
trim for a beam reach, Indigo just wasn't coming around. Distance was vanishing at light speed
between the boat and Lunt's dock. I needed to get her around,
and around fast.
"Roll out the genny," I called to Carol ("called" putting it very
mildly), and out she came. Too late. The genoa began to bring
us around, but I did the math. More sail equals more speed, more
speed equals less time and less distance. Now we were reaching
with all sails set and pulling, and we weren't going to make it.
And in seconds we were going to severely test the puncture resistance
of a lobsterboat on the dock and learn the Harvard-priced lesson
that a T-bone is not just a steak.
If Confucius was a sailor (and not a purist), I'm sure he would
have said "When all hell breaks loose, start the motor." I reached
down, turned the key, and giving the engine an ample 1/100th-of-a-second
warm-up, threw her in full forward, spinning the wheel with the
helm hard up. Well let me tell you. The momentum of a 13,000-pound
boat on its fastest point of sail with the full force of its power
plant and a little weather helm thrown in brings a boat into the
wind right quick. Now we were tacking, clearing the lobsterboat
by a foot or two, sails flapping.
Just as I was sucking in air for my sigh of relief, just as the
shaking genny worked its way to the other side of the boat, I
caught a glimpse of a beautiful sight. There, on the dock ahead
of the lobster boat was the prettiest little motor launch, all
trimmed in honeyed varnish, with blue-black topsides so glossy
you could drown in them. This was the boat the Hinckley picnic
boats wish they could be. But wait. What was going on? It's skipper
was casting off. He was so busy putting away his pile-clad fenders--or
so blinded by the reflections off this craft--that he had failed
to look behind him. If he had, he would have seen Indigo coming right at him, bone in her teeth, jaw-clenching expressions
of grim determination on the faces of helmsman and crew.
I can't describe what happened next. Some mental, circuit-breaker
reflex kicked in, and I have no memory, no recollection at all,
of the next few moments (these now being borrowed time, long overdue).
But there was no dry crunching of fiberglass, no splintering of
wood, no splash (I swear, if we hit those topsides that's the
sound it would have made). Now moving at hull speed or more, we
must have continued right around to port, and the next thing I
knew, we were gracefully running out of the harbor, beet red.
Carol found some terribly important spot to study on her shirt,
and my eyes seemed glued to the horizon ahead. We never looked
back, but I swear I could hear observers on some of the other
boats saying, "There go the experts...",
Blue Hill Harbor, p. 295-296
Jack and Gina Wallace write the following: "We discovered a new
bistro in town, Jean-Paul's, owned by a French expatriate from
Provence via New York City, and which provides beautiful views
of the inner harbor through colorful beds of perennial flowers.
Even though we arrived near closing time, he was gracious enough
to serve us and converse with us personally. We highly recommend
adding this site to your guide."
Sawyer Cove, Bartlett Narrows, p. 301/5/4
Eric Wolman writes "The cairn in the entrance might be more clearly
described as on the southeastern part of the ledge, rather than
the 'eastern' part. Below about half tide, the ledge seems to
run about 50 yards to the east, 30 yards to the south, and 20
yards to the west of the cairn; and the whole ledge seems roughly
hourglass-shaped, with the axis running NW-SE."
The Narrows may be getting narrower. Permits were granted for
the construction of a new, private pier projecting 60 feet into
the narrowest part of the Narrows. The project was so controversial
that the Non-profit Conservation Law Foundation filed a lawsuit
to challenge the validity of the permitting on the grounds that
the pier would imped navigation. Please let us know if the pier
is there yet. And in the meantime, this might be one place you
want to avoid in the fog.
Acadia, p. 302
Acadia National Park is one of two National Parks this year trying
a new, free bus system to reduce overcrowding and emissions from
too many cars in the park. Eight busses will run routes over the
island this year with 12 more added to the fleet next season.
Our solution would have been a subway.
Bass Harbor, p. 302-304
The site of the former Bass Harbor Marine continues to be in a
state of flux. Morris yachts plans to develop their service department
there, and expects it to be operational by mid-July. Another property
once associated with Bass Harbor Marine, just inside of the town
dock, has been privately acquired and will be called Up Harbor
Marine.
A controversial proposal has been made to run a free ferry shuttle
from Bass Harbor to Bar Harbor, with stops along the way for sightseeing
and shopping. But the idea may have fallen into the too-good-to-be-true
file. Nobody seems to know if and when it will come to pass, and,
as far as commercial operators who offer similar trips are concerned,
that's just as well. Please let us know what you hear.
After the oil pressure warning buzzer went off on Jubilant, Marjorie and Bill Goettle sailed into Southwest Harbor. "I read
with interest," Marjorie writes, "your praise of Downeast Diesel
in your newsletter. We also recommend them highly....John was
helpful, knowledgeable, and reeasonalbe. He did not have a Yanmar
oil sensor switch in stock, but he ordered one and let us stay
free on his mooring for two nights. He was out to our boat three
times, but charged us for less than one hour's labor." Now that's
service.
Southwest Harbor, p. 304-305
If you plan a nighttime landfall at Southwest Harbor or vicinity
or you get caught out, note that Greening Island buoy "8," marking
Greening Ledge (44-16-28.8N, 068-18-23.5W), is now lit, flashing
R 2.5s. Mark chart 13318 and harbor chart, p. 305.
Somes Harbor, p. 309
Moorings. Moor and moor of them. There is still anchoring space near the
mouth of the harbor.
Higgins Market is now a gift shop, but they do carry fresh-baked
goods. "Guess I surprised them when I asked 'Where's the fruit?'"
one sailor writes. The nearest basics are at what we have called
a "general store" right on Rt 102, the Quik Stop at the Mobil
station. It's well-stocked with meats, produce, and a deli.
Frenchman Bay and Bar Harbor, p 318
Once again, technology runs amok. Beware of the new, controversial
high-speed, catamaran that now runs between Bar Harbor and Yarmouth
Nova Scotia. She travels at a staggering 40 mph cruising speed,
on hulls described as wave-piercing. Let's hope, in the fog, that's
all she pierces. She's already mysteriously collided with a fishingboat
in Yarmouth Harbor, killing the fishingboat captain. Be aware,
too, that her wake can come out of nowhere, with several people
sustaining injuries from them in the Bar Harbor area. "We stayed
away (from Bar Harbor), as did other cruisers we spoke with,"
is one prudent reaction. We welcome any suggestions for defensive
strategies for that moment when you are enshrouded both by fog
and the roar of all 38,000 horsepower of her engines.
Winter Harbor, p. 325
You too could winter here. Winter harbor Marina is for sale. Expect
changes. Or initiate them--you could be the new owner.
DOWN EAST
Who says it's remote. One report: "There are LOTS of boats east
of Schoodic--radar and gps make this easy." This can be true,
particularly during club cruises or cruising rallies.
Cutler, p. 355-356
Get it right, will you?! When Watt Webb reported a bottom possibly
fouled with iron on the bottom in Cutler, I remembered seeing a potentially deadly scallop drag on the
harbor floor of Corea and I inadvertently put Mr. Webb's scrap metal there too. He
writes, "It is in Cutler east of the commercial moorings just
where one would anchor." My apologies for cluttering the wrong
harbor (and for any confusion).
Bruce Board adds that moorings, water, fuel, and inexpensive lobster
are all available at Fitzhenrys.
Machias Seal Island. p. 356
By the miracle of digital communication, the following landed
on my desk, and I couldn't help thinking of Machias Seal Island.
This is the transcript of an actual radio conversation of a US
naval ship with Canadian authorities off the coast of Newfoundland
in October 1995 released by the Chief of Naval Operations 10-10-95:
Americans: Please divert your course 15 degrees to the North to
avoid a collision.
Canadians: Recommend you divert YOUR course 15 degrees to the
SOUTH to avoid a collision.
Americans: This is the Captain of a US Navy ship. I say again,
divert YOUR course.
Canadians: No. I say again, you divert YOUR course.
Americans: THIS IS THE AIRCRAFT CARRIER USS LINCOLN, THE SECOND
LARGEST SHIP IN THE UNITED STATES' ATLANTIC FLEET. WE ARE ACCOMPANIED
BY THREE DESTROYERS, THREE CRUISERS AND NUMEROUS SUPPORT VESSELS.
I DEMAND THAT YOU CHANGE YOUR COURSE 15 DEGREES NORTH, THAT IS
ONE FIVE DEGREES NORTH, OR COUNTER-MEASURES WILL BE UNDERTAKEN
TO ENSURE THE SAFETY OF THIS SHIP.
Canadians: This is a lighthouse. Your call.
West Quoddy Head, Grand Manan Channel, p. 370; Lubec Narrows,
p. 375
Relocate Sail Rock lighted whistle buoy "1," off West Quoddy Head,
to 44-48-37.9N, 066-56-25.7W. That this is a flagged waypoint
on Chart Kit charts 25 and 79 that should be corrected. And as
you go by, appreciate those red stripes on the West Quoddy Head
lighthouse. When a film production company wanted to use thje
lighthouse for a movie, they thought they had found the perfect
location. The only problem was the stripes, but that, they figured,
could be taken care of with a paintbrush. But this time, money
didn't talk, and the Maine Film Board refused.
PASSAMAQUODDY BAY
Note the following changes to buoys around Letete Passage and
the Bliss Islands (Canadian charts 4124, 4331, and LC 4011):
Rename green can "SA1" to "SA3" (45-01-40.00N, 066-50-52.00W).
Rename green can "SA3" to "SA5" (45-01-49.9N, 066-50-41.1W).
Rename east cardinal buoy "S" to "SA" (44-59-53.4N, 066-52-38.5).
Relocate red spar "SA2" to 45-01-02.9N, 066-51-13.4W.
Add green can "S1" at 45-00-52.2N, 066-53-20.1W.
Rename lighted bell "SL" to "S" (45-00-24.6N, 066-51-15.6W).
Rename cardinal light buoy "SA" to "SAA" (45-02-31.7N, 066-54-08.0W).
Relocate red spar "SA2" to 45-01-03.5N, 066-51-18.0W.
Add green can "S1" at 45-00-56N, 066-53-24.0W.
FUNDY AND SAINT JOHN
Point Lepreau and the Wolves
Correct Canadian charts LC4116 and LC4011 for the folllowing:
Delete fairway light and whistle buoy "KM" at 45-02-31.3N, 066-27-49.9W.
Delete north cardinal light and whistle buoy "KE" at 45-00-30.3N,
066-41-42.9W.
APPENDIX
D. Island Ferry Service. The toll-free number for the Maine State
Ferry Service (Rockland to North Haven, Vinalhaven, and Matinicus;
Bass Harbor to Swans Island) is 1-800-491-4883.
OTHER NEWS
A new, free (we like free) magazine has appeared to focus (we
don't like too much focus) on the Maine coast. We highly recommend
looking for Points East Magazine during your cruise.
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